Hi all, I'd like to get some input on how to address this top blowout. For starters I own this, I got it as a project guitar, 71 D28. I'm not as experienced with acoustics as electrics and this is a big project but I got it to learn new skills and I'm confident I can do it with guidance. It had been stored in the case for many years under tension and was way too humidified. The bridge had pulled up I assume in stages. The center seam se…
Chris, can I add this for the council of elders show ? Also, we are going to have @member on pretty soon to talk about a job about this dramastic. Here's a link to the live show co…
Dave Slimmer OldSchoolGuitarLoothprintTools, Spaces, Robots and WidgetsLite
I'm restoring an old parlor guitar. I have just discovered that it plays 20 cents sharp. Thats not in and of itself a mystery, usually. This guitar however has exactly the same distance from the nut to the 12th fret, and from the 12th fret to the "saddle" which is now a small shim under the two E strings both are 12 3/32"...with room in front of the bridge pins to finesse the location of the saddle slot, which I have not routed yet) I s…
Santa heard I had a challenging year so he got me a 3d printer for Christmas. I’ve been printing like crazy, learning the machine. This has resulted in a bunch of tools that either don’t work for me, were attempts at mixing colors, or have very minor printing blemishes. Two lots up for grabs to anyone in the US who wants either. I’ll mail to you for free. First one to claim each gets it :) First lot has parametric nut and saddle sanders…
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Lot #1 still available. I'll likely be adding to the lot as I print and eff up but still make usable prints.
I inherited a 70's D28 that is a players instrument. The action is too high for me, but the saddle is bottomed out. There is no obvious belly bulge. The top of the bridge has been shaved. Bridge pin holes are uneven in diameter. However, the bridge placement seems pretty close; within 1/32". A straight edge on the fret board sits about 1/8" below the top of the bridge. The fret board has plenty of finger worn wells, there is virtually n…
Looks like classic neck reset/typical martin stuff. Only exception is the fingerboard. Might be worth hopping on a zoom call to chat about this one. Would you have time for something like that ?
James Roadman - Roadman GuitarsVideoTools, Spaces, Robots and WidgetsLite
In the process of evaluating the repairs needed on this guitar I checked to see if the truss rod was working. There is hole in the transverse brace where you would normally insert a truss rod, but all I see is the end of a metal bar with a smallish hole in the center. I tried several allen wrenches that would fit in the hole, but nothing seems to grab. Did they really eliminate the adjustable truss rod on this vintage reproduction? Here'…
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A reproduction with that much wrong?!?! Did the thing go of a cliff in the back of a car without a seat belt, get thrown, and wash up 10 miles south?
Hi everyone, I’m working on a thinline style (semi hollow flat top) and had a question about the chambering. I’m planning on only one F-hole on the top side, but wanted to get as much air movement as I could. Will cutting the chamber behind the bridge cause me problems, like in the pic? Do I need the center block to go all the way back to the strap pin? I feel like I should be fine with a decent glue up. Thanks!
An Alvarez MF350C arrived on my bench recently. The bridge was lifting ever so slightly, which prompted me to look inside. It's got a bridge plate like I've never seen before. The pin holes are on the very edge of the bridge plate. Seems like you'd want some of the re-enforcement behind the bridge pins. This one, there is none. Some questions: Is that normal for an Alvarez? Could this have been replaced at some point? What are the implicat…