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Fingerboard extension gap – new build
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Fingerboard extension gap – new build
I’m nearing the end of my first build. I have about 1 mm gap above the top at the end of the fingerboard extension. I’ve read and seen some guidance to clamp that down while gluing the extension. Others seem to build in a wedge-shaped shim – although it seems that is mostly done with neck resets and not new builds. A straight edge on the frets is just slightly above the top of the bridge so I think my neck angle is good. What are your thoughts on how to address the gap? Is this a normal occurrence? Thank you!
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6 Replies
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If you push the fingerboard extension down and run a straight edge to the bridge does it hit flush with the top of the bridge? If so you are good to go, glue that extension down (the end of the fingerboard should “fall off” a bit for playability).
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OK great – thank you! When I clamp down the extension the straight edge is right at the top of the bridge and it doesn’t take much to clamp to the top so glue it is. Appreciate it!
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On resets, I shim out gap. Some people like to play up in the noodle zone and fall away increases action a bit.
On new builds you can angle the neck block area to project to the bridge if the gap bums you out. You can also, if it’s subtle enough change the geometry by sanding an angle into the top at the fb extension. Beware the funky looking binding tho.
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Thank you – I may play around on my next build with building more of an angle into the neck block/top area under the fingerboard. Now that I have one under my belt I can better understand how that could work. Thanks again!
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Brad, congrats on nearing the end. It’s a good practice to put a straight edge on the part of the top under the FB extension to verify that the top is flat in the fingerboard plane. I learned from Robbie Obrien/ Jeff Jewitt to put a 2.5-3.0mm spacer at the future position of the bridge saddle and use a long-ish, flat standing stick to flat-sand the top on the neck block end, flat in the same plane as the neck angle (the non-sanding end of the stick sits on the spacer). If you do this BEFORE cutting your binding channels, you won’t have funky bindings (shorter in height from flat sanding).
Before I learned this, I had done it once just before finishing, during the final check of the neck fitment, if there was a slight gap where the FB meets the top. It will likely affect your neck fit set slightly, and could make your binding ever-so-slightly shorter in that area. Choose your weevil.
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Thanks Karl. Robbie’s courses (online) and Jeff’s videos have been super helpful with this whole process. I really like the tip about using a spacer at the bridge location to sand an angle in the neck block area – I’ll definitely play around with that on the next one.
Thanks again!
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