I measured the top thickness in case that would come into play.

I applied “Transferrite” sign-painter’s tape over the sound hole and the top to lay out my sketch on.

The top measured 1/8”

Then, with magnets and a plastic rule I began locating and drawing the small “popsicle” brace near the sound hole.

I continued measuring, here just picking up the distance from the approximate center of the sound hole to one edge of the small brace.

Some more lines: where the X-brace crossed, etc.

I removed the drawing and stuck it onto a block of wood. Now I know where the brace is, and how much wood I want showing in the sound hole for me to clamp onto.

Using the drill-press as a mill, I plowed a flat-bottom groove in the wood.

It groove is the width and depth of the small brace.

Getting ready to cut my piece out.

The result.

In use — it clamped right on!

This is how I will use it . . .

. . .after Andre’ copies it into the computer (he is using the “Onshape” drawing program).

Voila’! Now that I have the dimensions and a proof of concept, this shape can be used to produce any number of interesting clamping cauls for the waist and soundhole.

It worked great, but needs a little caul to fit over the foot of the clamp.

Andre’ modeled it and printed it in 20 minutes!

A cute little slip on caul with a rounded edge to bear in the curve of the cutaway.

In use without glue. Speaking of glue, for this glue up I am going to use Canopy glue that I learned about from Looth Group member Doug Graham.  It, glues plastic to plastic and to wood, and is easy to clean up — especially with a small clamp holding the binding in place while cleaning off the excess (where tape makes cleanup more difficult).