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My most accurate hygrometer is the little analogue humidor one from amazon. I have a swing psychrometer to check them against. THis one even has an adjustment slot on the back (under the PSA mounting foam). https://a.co/d/igY4qbA
a.co
Buy Cigar Oasis Analog Hygrometer and Humidity Sensor - High Precision Humidity Monitor for Reliable Cigar Humidor Care and Maintenance on Amazon.com ✓ FREE SHIPPING on qualified orders
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Reply to Fingerboard extension gap - new build
Brad, congrats on nearing the end. It’s a good practice to put a straight edge on the part of the top under the FB extension to verify that the top is flat in the fingerboard plane. I learned from Robbie Obrien/ Jeff Jewitt to put a 2.5-3.0mm spacer at the future position of the bridge saddle and use a long-ish, flat standing stick to…
Jorge Rodríguez Spiral Sun Guitars -
Dropped my old crappy digital hygrometer. What are the hive’s recommendations for a trustworthy one? I’m leaning towards an analogue one like the StewMac one but am open to suggestions.
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Reply to Fingerboard extension gap - new build
Thank you – I may play around on my next build with building more of an angle into the neck block/top area under the fingerboard. Now that I have one under my belt I can better understand how that could work. Thanks again!
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Reply to Fingerboard extension gap - new build
OK great – thank you! When I clamp down the extension the straight edge is right at the top of the bridge and it doesn’t take much to clamp to the top so glue it is. Appreciate it!
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Reply to Fingerboard extension gap - new build
On resets, I shim out gap. Some people like to play up in the noodle zone and fall away increases action a bit.
On new builds you can angle the neck block area to project to the bridge if the gap bums you out. You can also, if it’s subtle enough change the geometry by sanding an angle into the top at the fb extension. Beware the funky looking binding tho.
Karl Borum - Borum Acoustics -
Reply to Fingerboard extension gap - new build
If you push the fingerboard extension down and run a straight edge to the bridge does it hit flush with the top of the bridge? If so you are good to go, glue that extension down (the end of the fingerboard should “fall off” a bit for playability).
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Gerry Hayes Haze Guitars replied to the discussion Too many knobs, too little time in the forum Quick Questions 5 months ago
Reply to Too many knobs, too little time
Hi Elaine
It’s hard to say anything for sure from a photo as it’s hard to trace wires around under others. Things are too tight packed here to be sure but I think you’re correct in identifying the pots. One certainly looks like volume and the other certainly looks like tone. It’s safe to assume the one with the PCB attached is distortion or gain.…
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3DC CNC Pickup WindersMr. Roadman brings in James Gregg and Josh Rieck to look at two CNC pickup winders, and see how the wonders of technology might mimic…
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Question on thinline style build
Hi everyone, I’m working on a thinline style (semi hollow flat top) and had a question about the chambering. I’m planning on only one F-hole on the top side, but wanted to get as much air movement as I could. Will cutting the chamber behind the bridge cause me problems, like in the pic? Do I need the center block to go all the way back to the…
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